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( I 5SheetsSheet 1. J. E. JACKSON.

SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS 0R SHOES.

583,181. Patented May25, 1897.

3\ I f A QT;

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 2.

v J. E. JACKSON. SEWING MAGHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS 0R SHOES.

No. 583,181. Patented May 25, 1897.

xxh /w- (No Model.) 5 Shets-8heet 3.

. J. E. JACKSDN.

SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS OR SHOES.

Patented May 25,1897.

7 (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

J. E. JACKSON. SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING Boo'rs 0R SHOES.

Patented May 25,1897.-

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 5.

J. E. JACKSON. SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS 0B,. SHOES. No. 588,181.,7 Patented May 25,1897.- @1 1 v u: "cams wsrzws cow, PMu'roLyma,WASNINGTDN. o c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEicE.

JAMES E. JACKSON, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF THREE-FIFTI-IS TOMICHAEL HURLEY AND THOMAS F. HART, OF SAME PLACE.

SEWING-MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS OR SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 583,181, dated May 25,1897.

Application filed June 18, 1896. Serial No. 596,046. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern: or features, as the case may be, wherever Beit known that I, JAMES E. JACKSON, of they occur.

Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Of the drawings, Figure l is aside eleva- Massachusetts, have invented certain new tion of one form ofmachine in which my inand useful Improvements in Sewing- Mavention isembodied. Fig. 2 is afrontelevachines for Lasting Boot or Shoe Uppers,of tion of the same. Fig. 3 is aplan view. Fig. which the following is aspecification. 4. shows in detail the means for feeding the Thisinvention has relation to sewing-mawork for each stitch. Fig. 5 is adetail View, chines for lasting boots or shoes; and it has partly insection, of the pincers for grasping IO numerous objects, to theprincipal one of the upper and drawing it taut over the last. 6c which Ishall briefly refer. Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate two of the cams which Theprincipal object of the invention may are employed. Fig. 8 illustratesthe pincers, be said to be to provide a machine forlasting the grippersfor the insole, and the slashing shoes to operate in such way that theupper mechanism. Figs. 9, 10, and 11 show in de- 1 5 shall be firstdrawn taut over the last and then tail some parts of the machine whichwill be sewed to the insole, with the result that the hereinafter fullydescribed. Fig. 12 shows upper shall be smooth and unwrinkled at inperspective an insole, together with the every point. To attain thisobject, it is necgrippers for engaging a tape thereon during essary thatthe edge of the upper shall be the operation of sewing. Fig. 13illustrates 2o shingled, or, in other words, shall be in detail some ofthe parts of the machine. slashed, in order that it may stretch or over-Fig. 14 shows a different form of device for lap, as the case may be, toconform to the actuating the pincer-jaw. Figs. 15 and 16 curves of theinsole; and it is further necesillustrate an insole provided with a tapeto sary that it should be drawn taut over the which the upper is securedby stitches. Figs.

25 last before the stitch is taken. 17 and 18 illustrate an insoleprovided with My invention therefore consists of a sewa line of stitchesinstead of a tape. Figs. 19 ing-machine provided with means for slashand20 are sectional views through Figs. 15 ing the edges of the upper andthen sewing and 17, respectively. the latter to the insole, theoperations of sew- It will be understood that while I have 0 ing andslashing being continuous, together shown and shall now proceed todescribe one So with gripping-jaws for engaging the insole form ofsewing-machine in which my invenand means for drawing the upper tautbefore tion is embodied, yet I do not wish to be unthe needle enters thework. derstood as in any wise limiting myself to The invention likewiseconsists of improved this particular embodiment of the invention,

5 mechanism for drawing the upper tautover since many of the features ofimprovement 8' the last and means for engaging the insole may beemployed in machines of other kinds to act as an abutment for the thrustof the and other forms. first said means; and it also consists of a Incarrying out my invention I employ the novel means for feeding the workduring the usual standard Ct, upon which the bed or 40 operation ofsewing, whereby the latter is frame 6 of the machine is mounted. The fedforward automatically to the proper exsaid frame is provided with abed-plate c, tent for each stitch. standards d for supporting the shaft,and a The invention also consists in numerous top plate 6, upon whichthe operative parts other features of improvement, to which I of themachine are mounted. Power is im- 45 shall not now refer, but which willbe hereparted to the several parts of the mechanism 5 inafter explainedat length, and set forth in by means of a shaft f, suitably mounted indetail in the claims hereto appended. bearings in the side standards 61.Said shaft Reference is to be had to the drawings and is provided with adriving-wheel g, to which to the letters of reference thereon, the samepower may be transmit-ted in any convenient 50 letters indicating thesame or similar parts or desirable way.

h is a gooseneek suitably mounted upon the top plate 0, and upon theouter projecting end of which are mounted stitching mechanism, thegrippers for the insole, and the means for feeding the work laterallyfor each stitch, as I shall now proceed to describe.

Across the front end of the gooseneck h is secured a lateral]y-extendingsupport 'i, having a depending arm j, in which and an arm j of thegooseneck is mounted a shaft 7;, upon which are mounted the awl-carrierZ and the needle-carrier m. The needle-carrier is movable longitudinallyof the shaft It, being held in its normal position by a spring a,abutting against the depending armsj". Said carrier is provided with anupwardly-projectingarm 0, connected by a link 1) with a slotted lever q,suitably pivoted in an ear '1' on the top plate and extending down intoposition to be engaged by a cam s, rigidly mounted upon the shaft f. Theleverqhas a roller 25, projecting into a cam-track u in the cam-disk s,the latter being shown in detail in Fig. 7. When the cam-disk s isrevolved, the lever q reciproeates the link 1), which in turn causes anoscillation of the needle-carrier m. The awlcarrier Z is mounted uponthe shaft 7t and is provided with an upward]y-extendin g arm '0, pivotedto a link in, the latter being connected to a lever a:, mounted upon oneof the standards (Z and having on its lower end a roller y, projectinginto a cam-slot a in the inner face of a ca1n-disk5,fixed upon theshaft-f. The cams s and are of such peculiar shape that the awl is firstdriven through the work while the needle remains in its raised position,and

the awl and the needle are both rocked together until the needlepenetrates the work and engages the thread on the under side thereofpreparatory to drawing it up therethrough, and there are combined withthese parts such mechanism that when the needle reaches the end of itsthrow the awl is moved farther backwardly and the needle and the workengaged thereby are both fed laterally to present a new portion of thework to the grippers and pincers, as will be hereinafter described.

The means for moving the needle-carrier longitudinally of the shaft 7.:consist of a sleeve b, rigidly connected with the awl-carrier andprovided with a cam-face c, with which is engaged a pin (Z, projectingfrom an arm f, extending down from a plate f sliding with theneedle-carrier, said plate f being held in place against the plate 1' onthe gooseneck by a roller m journaled in a bracket 1t", rigidly securedto said plate 1'. The arm 1'' is separated from the needle-carrier by asleeve or hub c. The cam-sleeve b is so arranged with relation to thepin (1' that the latter is not forced longitudinally of the shaft 7;until the needle has reached the end of its throw and has engaged thework, so that the work may be fed along with the needle.

\Vhile any stitch-forming mechanism may be employed that is well adaptedfor the purpose, yet I sometimes prefer to use that which is illustratedin the drawings. The needle a is suitably mounted in its carrier m, itbeing provided with the usual east-off, for which there is afriction-strip I), mounted on the plate f, sliding with theneedle-carrier. The looping mechanism is illustrated in detail in Figs.9, 10, and 11. It consists of a curved arm (Z having an eyelet at c forthe thread. The arm is held in a pivoted lever f by a setscrew the leverf being pivoted in a slotted bar 71 mounted upon a bar 1*, rigid on thegooseneck. A cam 7' on the awl-carrier engages theend of the lever ofthe looper and carries the arm d" and the thread therewith down past theneedle, so as to form a loop on the same.

I have not shown in detail the needle, the cast-off, and thefriction-strip for the cast-off, as they do not form an essential partof my invention, and I lay no claim to the same. The looper, however, ispeculiar in that it is mounted on a bar rigidly secured to and extendingdown from the goosencck, being operated by the awl-carrier. The bar 7L3,on which the looper-lever is mounted, may be adjusted back and forth byreason of the slot through which the screw 0" passes to secure it to thearm 5 I shall now proceed to describe the grippers for engaging theinsole and the pincers for drawing the upper taut over the last andholdit while the needle is passed therethrough.

The grippers consist of a fixed serrated jaw g on the end of a strip h,secured to one of the arms j. The movable jaw i is pivoted at j' in aneye, projecting from the strip h. It has pivoted to it at L a curved armZ, the latter having its end extending in over the shaft 7;. (Shown inFigs. 1 and 13.) The awl-carrier Z is provided with a pin m, adapted tointermittingly engage a head a on the end of the curved arm Z. \Vhen theawl-carrier is moved during the last part of its throw, the pin mengages the head 11 and drawing upon the arm Z rocks the jaw i away fromthe jaw g of the grippers, so as to release the work. As the pin onforces the arm Z forward the head engages a hook 0, which lifts it fromengagement with the pin m, and a spring 19 forces the jaw Z shut,drawing the arm Z back into its normal position. A small helical springq connects the arm Z with the jaw-lever, so as to draw the former downinto position to be engaged by the pin m, it being free to rise forallowing the said pin m to slip thereunder when the movement of the awlis reversed. In Fig. 12 the grippers are shown as clasping a tape B,stitched to an insole A, as I shall hereinafter explain.

The pincers for engaging the edge of the upper and drawing it taut overthe last are shown in detail in Fig. 5, to which reference is to be had.The pincers consist of two jaws r and s, respectively. The jaw 7 ismounted upon the end of a pivoted lever Z mounted in the standards to.

and the jaw s is slidingly connected with a pivoted lever a, the twolevers being both pivoted upon a pivot-rod o, suitably journalled instandards w in the bed-plate. The levers are crossed, the lower end oflever i being apertured to receive a stop screw or pin 00, there being aspring 3 coiled around said pin or screw and pressing against the end ofthe said lever. The jaw s has an extension z', projecting through anaperture in which is a stud (1 said extension being connected with acrank-pint) by means of a link 0 The stud a is riveted or otherwisesecured in the lever u and serves as a guide for the extension .2 of themovable jaws s. The crank-pin 12 extends up from a shaft d It will beobserved that when the shaft 61 is oscillated the jaw s will bereciprocated relatively to the lever to. The two levers are bodilyrocked by means of a vertically-reciprocating rod e pivoted to a lever fwhich latter is pivoted at one end in a boss g extending out from one ofthe side standards d and having on its other end a roller extending intoa cam-slot in a disk'h mounted on the shaft f. The cam-disk h2 is shownin detail in Fig. 6. The

cam-slot is of such shape that the link or bar e will be held in itslowest position throughout the greater portion of a rotation of thedisk, but will be elevated during a short period of time while the disktraverses about one-fourth of its rotation. At the upper end the link 6is provided with a cam-lever t bearing against a plate j which projectsover and rests upon the top of lever to. The last said lever 'tt' isprovided with a pin k abutting against lever t, so that when the link 6is forced downward the cam-lever i bodily rocks levers t and u andthrows grippers 7" and s upward. The spring y, together with a spring Zforces the levers into their normal position when the pressure upon thelever u is removed, as will be understood. For sliding the jaw 8 throughthe medium of the shaft d I employ a crank m on the end of the latter.The crank is connected bya link n with a lever 0 pivoted to one of theside standards d at p The disk 2 is provided on its outer face with acam-groove (12, into which a roller on the end of an arm 0' on the lever0 extends. As the disk 2 rotates the shaft 61 will be rocked atintervals, drawing the jaw 8 toward and from the jaw r.

The parts are so timed that when the front ends of levers t and u aredepressed by reason of the elevation of the link or bar 6 the jaw s willbe withdrawn. Then it will be thrust back to engage the jaw r and thetwo will be bodily lifted by the bar or link e It happens, when a tip isto be sewed on with the upper, that the pincer-jaws cannot come as closetogether as when no tip is sewed,and hence I usually construct the levero as shown in Fig. 14.that is to say, it is given a quarter-turn at aand has its upper end tempered so as to provide a yielding spring whichwill allow the jaws to grip two thicknesses of material without thosedangerour results which are apt to be reached when no spring action isallowed for.

The manner in which the grippers, the pincers, the needle, awl, and theother parts which I have described cooperate will be eX- plained lateron.

I shall now describe the knife and its coacting parts, by means of whichthe edge of the upper is shingled or slashed during the op eration ofsewing the upper to the insole.

s is a longitudinally-reoiprocatory bar provided with adownwardly-extendin g end piece 15 to which is secured a triangularknife a projecting rearwardly. The rear end of the bar 3 is pivoted to alever r the latter itself being pivoted at 10 to the frame of the machine. The said lever 41 has on its lower projecting end a roller 00 inthe path ofa cam pin or projection 31* on the disk .2. .The bar isnormally held in its forward position by means of a spring a, connectedto the lever 12 and to the standard to. When the cam pin or projection yengages the roller 00 it draws the knife sharply rearward and causes itto penetrate the edge of the upper, which at this time is held taut bythe grippers and the pincers. The said knife is preferably formed with asharp point and with two cutting edges, so that instead of cutting theupper from the edge it penetrates the upper and cuts it in bothdirections.

In sewing the upper to the insole the latter, which is indicated by A,is provided, as has been before stated, with a tape 13, sewed thereon atsome little distance from the edge of the same, as shown in Figs. 12,13, 14, and 17, but while I prefer to employ an insole of this nature itwill be understood that I may employ an insole having a thread 0, formedin loops thereon, as shown in Figs. 15, 16, and 18, or else, if desired,I may sew the upper to a welted insole.

When the machine is to be employed in the operation of sewing an upperto an insole, the following steps are performed by the various parts ofthe machine: Assuming that the parts are in the position shown in Fig.1, and that the tape B has been grasped between the grippers z" and g,and the edge of the upper has been drawn taut over the last by thepincers and is firmly gripped by the same, the rotation of the shaft fcauses the link 10 to be forced forward, throwing the arm 1) of theawl-carrier forward and causing the awl to penetrate the tape and theupper. During this movement of the awl the cam projection 11 on thecam-disk z engages the roller 00 of the lever 0 drawing the slasherbladerearward with a quick movement, and since the upper is held taut at thistime by the pincers 'the knife makes a cut in the edge thereof, as hasbeen explained. The knife is not held in itsrearward position, butimmediately returns to its normal position. Then the awl starts backtoward its normal position, and as it moves back the needle follows itclosely, being drawn down by the link and the lever q, as has beenstated. \Vhen the needle reaches the end of its throw, the cam 7L2causes the bar or link 6 to rise and release the pincer-levers 25 and u,and at about the same time the cam-slot g in the disk .2 throws thelever 0 rearward, and the shaft (1 being rocked, draws backward the jaws. lVhen this is being performed, the pin m on the awl-carrier engagesthe head a on the curved arm Z and causes the jaw v." to move away fromthe jaw g of the grippers. The tape and the upper now being bothreleased the continued movement of the awl causes the cam-face of thehub b to engage the pin (1 and force the needle-carrier along the shaftk, the needle during this movement remaining stationary. The furthermovement of the awl causes the head n on the curved arm Z to engage thehook o, with the result that the said head is released from the pin on,allowing the jaw i of the gripper to engage a fresh portion of the tapeand clamp it against the stationary jaw g. At the same time the lever orocks the shaft d forward and the jaw s of the pincers engages the upperand forces it upward until it is clamped between the said jaw and thejaw r. IVhen this has been done, the bar or link 6 is depressed and thecam -1ever i engages the pincer-lever u, drawin the upper firmly overthe last. By this time the forward motion of the awl has stopped and theshaft f has nearly completed one rotation. As it completes its rotation,however, the awl is carried from its foremost position to the po sitionshown in Fig. 1. hen this has been done, the shaft f has made a completerotation, and as it rotates continuously the parts perform the samefunctions as I have described. The grippers may be said to act as anabutment for the thrust of the pincers,

inasmuch as the insole is pressed tightly against and is held by thesame.

While I have herein stated that the needlecarrier, by which the feedingof the work is accomplished, is moved longitudinally of itssupporting-shaft by the awl-carrier, yet it will be understood that I donot limit myself to machines employing an awl, since the awl may bedispensed with and any other mechanism for accomplishing the samepurpose in the same way may be employed in lieu thereof.

By employing a slasher-blade for shingling the edges of the upper I amenabled to sew the upper upon the insole in such way that when theoperation is completed the upper is smooth and unwrinkled, since the outedges will overlap at the toe and along the outward curves and will gapor stretch at the inward curves, as at the shank, so as to allow theleather of the upper to adapt itself to the peculiar shape of the laston which it is formed.

The movement of the pincers is such that one jaw of the same reachesdown and engaging the upper draws it taut over the last and then gripsit against the other jaw. The two jaws then firmly clamping it draw itup into position where it may be engaged by the needle and firmly sewedto the tape on the insole.

The cooperation of the slasher-knife with the needle and the grippersand pincers is peculiar and produces a novel and important result. Ashas been stated, the shingling or cutting of the edge of the upperallows the edge to either overlap or strike under the insole, accordingto the conformation of the latter, and in rounding the toe theoverlapping of the cut edges is accomplished automatically. The upper isheld taut and slashed, and the needle is passed throughit and the tape,and then when the pincers grip the upper in a new place, the last nowbeing moved to a sufficient angle relatively to the latter, the edge ofthe upper is drawn taut, so as to overlap the previous strip or cutedge.This occurs continuously until the toe is rounded, with the result thatthe slit edges overlap and form a neat flat plait at the toe. The lastis moved in the hands of the operator for the pincers to grip the upperwhile the needle is in the stock, so that the last is swung around theneedle as a pivot in rounding the toe, and the pincers must necessarilydraw the upper to overlap the preceding slit edge.

Having thus described one form of machine in which my invention may beembodied, without having attempted to set forth all of the forms inwhich the various parts thereof may be embodied, I now declare that whatI claim is- 1. A sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes providedwith grippers for the insole, and pincers for the upper, combined withmeans for causing the grippers and the pincers to intermittingly releasethe work, and means for feeding the said work when it is released asaforesaid, substantially for the purposes set forth.

2. Inasewing-maehine forlastingboots and shoes, the combination with thesewing mechanism, of a pincers for the upper, a gripper for positivelygripping and holding the insole to resist the thrust of the pincers,means for causing the pincers to intermittingly release the upper, andan automatic feeding mechanism for feeding the work when the upper isreleased by the pincers.

3. Inasewing-machine forlasting boots and shoes, the combination with apincers for drawing the upper taut over the last and holding it in ataut condition, grippers for positively gripping the insole to resistthe thrust of the pincers, and a needle, of means for causing thepincers to release the upper, and means for moving the needle and thework laterally when the upper is released.

4. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination withthe needle, of an intermittingly-acting gripperhavin g two jaws for theinsole, and an intermittingly-acting pincers for the uppers.

5. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination withgripper-jaws for the insole, a pincers for the upper, an awl, and aneedle, of means for causing the pincers and grippingjaws to grasp thework when the awl penetrates the latter and for causing them to releasethe work when the needle has penetrated it, and means for moving theneedle laterally, for the purpose set forth.

6. -In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combinationwith the gripper for a tape or similar device on an insole, a pincersfor the upper, and stitching mechanism for sewing the upper to the tape,of an awl, and means coacting therewith for causing the gripper torelease the tape intermittin gl y, for the purpose set forth.

7. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination withthe stitching mechanism, of a pincers for the upper having two jaws, andmeans for moving the pincers bodily to carry the edge of the uppertoward the stitching mechanism, said pincers having one jaw movableindependently of the other jaw for drawing the upper taut over the lastbefore it is engaged between the two jaws thereof.

8. Inasewing-machine forlasting boots and shoes, the combination withthe stitching mechanism, of pincers for the upper, consisting of twopivoted levers, each having a jaw on the end, one of said jaws beingmovable relatively to its lever, for the purpose set forth.

9. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination withthe stitching mechanism, of a pincers for the upper, consisting of twopivoted levers, each provided witha jaw, one of said jaws being movablerelatively to its supporting-lever, means for swinging said levers ontheir pivot, and means for moving said movable jaw relatively to itslever, for the purpose set forth.

10. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combinationwith the stitching mechanism, and a pincers for the upper, of means forfeeding the work laterally, and a knife movable independently of thepincers.

11. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combinationwith the stitching mechanism, and a pincers for the upper, of means forfeeding the work laterally, a movable knife, and means independent ofthe pincers for moving the knife to engage and cut the upper.

12. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combinationwith a stitch-form- .ing mechanism, and a pincers for the upper,

of a knife movable relatively to said pincers to cut the edge of theupper, and means for moving said knife when the pincers has engaged theupper.

13. Ina sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination witha stitch-forming mechanism, of a movable knife, and means In ovableindependently of said knife for drawing the upper taut over the lastprior to the movement of the knife.

14. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combinationwith a stitch-forming mechanism, and a gripper for the insole, of amovable knife, and means for moving said knife to engage and out theupper.

15. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combinationwith a needle-carrier, and an awl-carrier, of a looper mounted on astationary support, and a cam operated by the awl-carrier for causingthe looper to throw the thread over the needle.

16. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combinationwith a needle-carrier, and an awl-carrier, of a looper mounted on astationary support, and a cam operated by the awl-carrier for causingthe looper to throw the thread over the needle, said looper consistingof a pivoted lever and a curved arm adjustably held in said lever.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses, this 10th day of June, A. D.1896.

JAMES E. JACKSON.

IVitnesses O. F. BROWN, MARoUs B. MAY.

